The rest of the drying process then takes place inside kilns designed specifically for drying wood No binding at the nut when tuning or bending (unlike my historics), fret ends are ok but can be smoothed out a bit, but not intolerable as is The other problem with korina, according to wilson, is that the wood is highly susceptible to.
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Epiphone in around year 2000 issued a reissue '58 korina natural finish version
(they also offered a solid color version, but i'm not talking about that one.) around 2023, they also reissued what appears to be the same instrument
I'll assume that due to 23 years time frame that the pickups. My only korina wood guitar Its very full lows/mids and highs Probably the pickups have a lot to do with it also.
There has been speculation that the epiphone korinas have cheap wood of a different type under the veneer In my case, i have a flying v epiphone Looking at the sides and under the pickup cavities of my v, i can say it's definitely korina but is in pieces, glued together They just look so good, the.
I own a 50th anniversary korina historic explorer and a mahogany usa explorer in natural
Compared to each other acoustically, the korina model is much brighter and nasal. Korina (or limba) is a great tonewood, period, and will work with all kinds of guitars It's probably just tradition that it's associated with setnecks because it was gibson that first popularized korina, and it's closer to the mahogany end of the spectrum than it is to alder or ash. Korina is the name that gibson invented for the honey colored finish they applied to the original explorers and destroyers in the '50s
With that said, go with korina. Ive got a hamer korina jr single p90 Bought it here from fellow member willhutch in 2008 I dont have any other korina guitar and not really familiar with what korina contributes to the tone of a guitar
My hamer sounds loud aggresive and dynamic with lots of high end and mid high
Very well set up out of the box
